Jordan

Jordan and the United Arab Emirates make for an illuminating journey. What started as a special few days in Dubai with mum, dad, and sister Cate, rolled in to an engaging few weeks with the folks in Jordan and Abu Dhabi.

Assuming the role of tour guide, I showed off my favourite places in Dubai, from Deira to the Marina. Then it was off for R&R at the oasis in the desert, Hatta, where date palms, falajs, and the stunning Hajar mountains made exploring and kayaking a pleasure. A falaj being an irrigation system.

Upon arrival in Amman, Jordan, we were transported back 30 years into the hustle and bustle of a sprawling city that has consumed the surrounding hills, one neighbourhood at a time. Leaving many gems up various alleyways.

Meeting our Intrepid group, we made our way down to Wadi Rum, and the territory of my favourite character of contemporary history, Lawrence of Arabia. We stayed in a traditional Bedouin tent, enjoyed a sunset run through the desert, and visited Lawrence’s ‘7 Pillars of Wisdom’, and his various caves used during the 1917 Arab Revolt.

Then on to Petra, to walk in the footsteps of Indiana Jones. Our guide professionally drew from us a wow at every corner. Marvelling at the skills of the Nabatean civilisation for a day and a half, to be remembered forever. Entertained later by Jordanian dancing, in which I could see influences of folk dancing from the Russian-Georgian border areas, energised us into the evening.

Onwards to the Dead Sea. Savoured the ‘must-have’ experience of floating effortlessly. With our heads and torso out of the water, the thought of ‘walking’, or ‘bobbing’ to Israel, clearly visible just 10 kilometres across the water, seemed possible. Rubbing myself down with the purifying mineral containing mud of the Dead Sea, I enjoyed the tickling, pulling sensations as the mud dried in the afternoon sun.

Feeling rejuvenated, the next day we charged onwards to a Crusader fort. The first of many attempts by the English to control the lucrative Silk Road, way back in the 11th century. Better preserved than Stonehaven’s world famous Dunotter Castle, British technology suited desert environments in this case.

Climbing up Mount Nebo, following the steps of Moses to the place where he proclaimed the ‘Promised Land’ to end a 50 year migration from Egypt, was particularly invigorating. Then across to Madaba, where a very old mosaic map was found and used to determine the location of the baptism site of Jesus Christ. We would follow that map a few days later on our visit to Bethany.

Back to Amman for a rest before heading to Jesrah, the very well preserved Roman town which had seen that civilisation grow, flourish, evolve in to the Byzantine empire, then step back to make way for the Islamic era in the mid-seventh century. Well worth the visit.

Saying farewell to our fellow travelling companions, we set off to explore the Desert Castles of Eastern Jordan. From inns, to bathhouses, to Roman forts, travellers did much the same as we do today. Whilst getting lost in the corridors, I could imagine an 8th century merchant producing his booking.com voucher when checking in to Qasr al-Kharanah, proud of the Damascus based Umayyad caliphate and its economic strength. Then a few centuries later, a merchant in the Baghdad based Abbasid caliphate, uses a Group-On deal to enjoy a bath in the well decorated, fresco covered Qasr Amra bathhouse.

Driving on to Azraq castle, the sign indicating Iraq to the left, Saudi to the right drew near. It was too early to go back to work, and I didn’t have a visa for the other option, so we visited Lawrence’s room at the Roman built castle and turned back, bound for Amman, and a Roman bath with a good hard scrub.

Then onwards to Bethany, passing the site of Jesus’ baptism, now 300 metres from the present course of the Jordan River. 2000 years of geological and geomorphological action has moved the river closer to Jericho. How long until this reasoning is simplified and re-interpreted as climate change, I wonder.

Arriving at the trickle of water that is now the Jordan River, it was encouraging to see pilgrims in two countries, just meters apart, dunking their heads three times in the cold waters of the Jordan. United by their beliefs and welcomed in a country with a similar, but different, interpretation of historical events.

Then it was on to the all-too-familiar Emirates airline, back to Dubai, and into an RTA taxi down to Abu Dhabi. 3 full days, with sweet seats, looking over almost half the Formula One circuit, was a welcome relief. Witnessed the pure mastery of Lewis and his Mercedes, with encouraging signs that the young guns Max and Le Clerc can bring the Ferrari and Red-Bull onto the winners podium more often in 2020. Topped off with an excellent concert by the Killers, against the backdrop of Ferrari World.

Then some down time in Abu Dhabi. Watched the fireworks from the Corniche, and the energetic aerobatics displays in the skies above, from a-top the Big Bus tour, to celebrate the 48th National day.

Its off to work Thursday for a day in Dubai. Friday I’ll be back in my little room in a small part of the oilfields, nearish to the rivers of Babylon, and a few hours south of the town that played host to events that split the Shia beliefs from mainstream Islam in the late 7th century. The Middle-East is a special place, and Jordan certainly deserves its place as a tourist mecca.