Banff

I have wanted to come to Canada for a very long time, particularly to the ski-fields of Banff. Some of my university friends spent time there in the Australian summer breaks and had spoken very fondly about the experience.

Travelling from Calgary to Banff on the Brewster Bus, the journey was spectacular. Once the white topped Rockies came in to view and we entered the Banff National Park, I was glued to the window.

Feeling at home at the Irwin’s Mountain Inn, I checked in and hurried along to the ski hire. Securing a deal, three days for the price of two, it was fingers crossed for the ski-fields staying open.

Finding a comfortable seat on the balcony of the Banff Brewing Company, a pint of amber ale went down well in the late afternoon sun. Looking over a pretty town scape, with the snow-covered peaks looming large in the background.

Banff is a beautiful city. It has some attractive alpine architecture, steep roofs, and balconies, brought to life by a thick blanket of snow. As the sun began to set, the orange sky turned to pink against the clouds and it made for some stunning picture opportunities.

Like an eager beaver I was one of the first in the line to get on the bus to the Sunshine resort. It was my first time back on a snowboard in 5 years, so I approached it with caution and respect. After a few runs, muscle memory was returning and I remembered the sequence. Lean back on the heels, push down on the toes, stand-up straight when needed and squat down when required. It was great to be back.

The views across the Sunshine ranges were stunning. High snow capped peaks, geological layering catching the snow on ledges, making the mountains looked like cakes dusted with castor sugar.

Run after run, my confidence was returning. This was certainly the ski-field for the long runs and I managed to find a run that took 10 minutes. Weaving from the top of the mountain, with wide barren slopes, through the lodge area and then down through the narrower tracks in the forest, it was a great ride.

Food at the lodge was excellent, a Mediterranean pizza, served with an excellent view over the gondolas and on to the mountains. Topped off with Hot Chocolate. The views looking over the Rockies were ones to remember and savor. The skies were deep blue, the snow bright white, it was not too cold and the mountains looked stunning.

Tired, my concentration was waning. Riding the long gentle slope down to the car park, I felt the confidence gained on the snowboard whilst in Sakhalin returning. Straight on to the bus, hoping that the slopes would be open tomorrow, as I really wanted to do this again.

Back at the hotel, I had a chat to mum and cousin Dave and concluded it was best to continue the trip as planned. I was always going to be up for a hotel stay somewhere in the world for two weeks. In Australia there was the requirement for overseas travelers to self-isolate. If I went to London, it would be self-isolation there too.

The journey to Lake Louise was stunning, crossing the Banff National Park was a pleasure. It was great to finally arrive at Lake Louise, and the mountains did not disappoint.

My buddy Steve, who had taught me to snow-board in Sakhalin had recommended I make my way to the back-bowls, as there are some long runs there. The view was stunning as I tied my board to my feet and launched down. The freshly groomed snow was very fast and this green run was challenging, but enjoyable due to the spectacular views.

Pike run was fun, then up Paradise chair to the Top of the World. The ride down was hair-raising; exposed, steep, with narrow gully’s, at times congested. But the view was spectacular.

Lunch was calling and I found a cosy spot at the Temple, just up from the Ptarmigan chair and took my seat. The burger was tasty, with just enough chipotle sauce to give the tongue a tingle of spice. The hot-chocolate was a welcome relief, warming me up from the inside and boosting sugar levels.

Following lunch, I rolled back on to the slopes and had a very comprehensive afternoon of boarding. During each run it felt that I was improving my technique, and each run felt smoother and more in control than the last.

I had managed to get a full day of boarding, and had stayed until the runs closed. Once on the bus the message came around that the ski-fields would close, so today was the last day of skiing for a while. I looked lovingly up at the mountains, thankful that I had been able to ski on them. This one time had created memories to last a long time.

It took a few days to assess my next move, and the time was used to rest. I enjoyed the few days in isolation. My morning and afternoon walk to the supermarket and around the river kept me sane. Restaurants were closing rapidly, so I stocked up with enough food to keep me going for a few days.

I spent the first day of the State of Emergency watching the news to determine how I was going to play this game. It seemed like airlines would be reducing internal Canadian flights, and there was a big push to bring Canadians home, which I assumed would be the same for the other nationalities to their respective countries.

The plan was still to return to the UK, as it would be a better location from which to work remotly. And by being based in London, it may be possible to make contact with people in different organisations developing Nature Based Solutions as a way of reducing atmospheric carbon and biodiversity loss.

My reading of the news was that international flights had not stopped between the major centres, so I felt that I would wait until my return flight to London and not move it forward.

The smell of bleach and chlorine gradually increased during my days of self-isolation in the hotel, they were doing a deep clean. Many people had checked out that first day. I was happy not to be travelling through bus stations and airports with this first wave.

With each walk I took, the town of Banff was getting quieter. I spent my time walking around the town and overheard a number of conversations, either in the street or whilst sitting at the coffee shops. The ski-resorts had let go the staff that run the lifts and support the resorts.

There were a number of the young adults, who had come across from Australia and other countries to work in the ski fields this year who were now having to close leases, and make plans to return home. Many had been given the news that their jobs were no longer available just that day. They were paradoxically enjoying the sunshine, sitting talking to their friends with great tension, as they wrapped their heads around just what was going on, and how to respond.

I ended up walking around the river a few times, enjoying a cup of coffee at the coffee shop and generally enjoying being in this town, fascinated by this mass exodus. Watching people close up their activities had similarities to the two evacuations from Basrah that I had experienced these last few months.

The boss of my favourite coffee shop arrived to brief his staff on meeting outcomes whilst I was in there typing my diary. The hotel had decided to stay open, so the coffee shop would stay open. Staff would be paid for the next two weeks, however there would be reduced hours. There was a steer to limit the number of people in the shop to 6 at any one time. As I was sitting there, taking up space for this business, I said farewell for the day and went back to the hotel.

It was carnage, the oil price had fallen very low and due to the Corona Virus there was a significantly reduced demand. It was an unprecedented period where there was a global oversupply of oil and a global reduction in demand. The Saudis were locked in a tight battle with Russia to increase production in an attempt to drive out the US Shale providers and capture more market share.

The market was flooded with oil. A news report piqued my interest. With more oil in the market, there is less of an incentive for customers to buy the higher sulphur content Iraqi oil. My time in Basrah was already coming to an end this year, it was concerning to think that it may happen earlier than planned. It was time to go home.

Once the bags were packed, I went for one last walk around the now quiet town of Banff. I stopped off at the little coffee shop that I had enjoyed drinking my flat white at over the last few days.

After the ritual coffee, I walked the route through town, down the main street, noting that it was so much quieter than the days before. I made my way past the mainly closed shops and down to the bridge over the river.

The ice covering on the river was growing thinner as the thaw was starting and the water was flowing faster than five days before. Over the stone bridge, along the snow dusted river path and up over the new bridge, putting me on course for the beautiful view of the mountain that towers over Banff. Then it was back up through the quiet streets, the few remaining people saying their farewells after the abrupt end to the ski season.

Not knowing where home is has been a tough mental challenge, and this time in Banff highlighted that. I had spent the last two years roaming freely, and really enjoyed it. However, now I needed a safe harbor to get through this Corona Virus period. A part of me wants to be back in Australia, however another part of me really wants to be in the European Economic Zone, getting involved in the new energy technology.

By the time I arrived back to the sanctuary of Jaco’s house in Toronto, the decision was easy, and I booked flights back to Adelaide, a lovely city in South Australia. Two weeks of self-isolation then a few months hunkered down with mum and dad seemed the most logical option.

Other stories from this Canada trip can be found in the pages for Montreal and Calgary.